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Alice Archer RTW Spring 2019

5 days ago   |   By WWD

While reading Willa Cather's Prairie Trilogy, which was first printed in 1913 with “O, Pioneers,” Alice Archer was inspired by the author's rich descriptions of nature, which she channeled into a collection abloom with embroidered wildflowers in silhouettes that lightly hinted at the period during which the books were published.
It was a romantic collection, verging on sentimental, with a palette inspired by the vast blue sky, green fields and pink dress worn by the protagonist in Andrew Wyeth's painting “Christina's World,” and white, which appeared as broderie anglais in long and short...
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Margaret Howell RTW Spring 2019

5 days ago   |   By WWD

Margaret Howell put a utilitarian spin on her usual laid-back tailoring. Relaxed button-down shirts and khaki slacks could easily walk off the runway and into the workplace.
Not one for obvious statements, Howell played with subtle details - a pointed collar here, a round neck there and the occasional sailor collar - and natty accessories. Pageboy hats sat on model's heads and these tipped playfully to one side while colorful neckerchiefs and square tipped ties were knotted loosely with a slapdash hand.
Howell's women were dressed in high-waisted, pleated shorts, roomy and fuss-free skirts...
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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi RTW Spring 2019

5 days ago   |   By WWD

Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi were feeling nomadic for spring: Fortune tellers, gypsies and the new breed of so-called digital nomads were all on the couple's mind when designing their spring 2019 range.
It exploded with clashing prints, colors and disparate references, inspiring a makeshift approach. There were technical nylon fabrics made into loose, mannish shorts and juxtaposed with pretty floral and ruffled tops; minidresses featuring a patchwork of different prints and slashed knitted panels draped over them; short knitted vests torn apart and sewn back together with layers of...
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Temperley London RTW Spring 2019

5 days ago   |   By WWD

Alice Temperley presented her spring 2019 collection on the top floor of Center Point, a skyscraper in the heart of London.
But she had more carefree, seaside locations in mind, parading a collection that was all about easy glamour. She applied her flair for colorful patterns and sparkle onto breezy tunics, easygoing dresses, printed jumpsuits and wide-leg pants.
There was an oriental flavor to the lineup, which was filled with sequins, fluid silhouettes and airy caftans. Temperley said her aim was to move away from florals and offer more geometric shapes and easy, lightly draped...
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Gareth Pugh RTW Spring 2019

5 days ago   |   By WWD

Gareth Pugh, one of London's most celebrated provocateurs, staged his spring 2019 show as an ode to his hometown and to “outsider society.”
Set in a dimly lit space of the Old Selfridges hotel and to the blasting sounds of industrial music, Pugh revisited some of his signatures, to deliver a powerful, high-voltage spectacle.
The show opened with a cry in the dark - Freddie Mercury singing “Why can't we gives ourselves one more chance” - which made everyone's hair stand on end. It was followed by a parade of models who stomped down the runway, strutting their stuff in punk, high platform...
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